Form and function, from an offbeat angle. An expressive take on utility. The Marni collection is light, bold and individual. Functional details multiply, allowing garments to be worn and appropriated in different ways.
The silhouette is neat and relaxed: boxy jackets are paired with roomy trousers cut above the ankle. Coats are enveloping, volumes are exaggerated.
Velcro closure ensure quick gestures and impromptu decisions. The opened back of coats and jackets creates freedom. Tabs on the hips make the volume of roomy shirts malleable and pliable. Elasticated details give shirts a crumpled airy feel. Segmented shirts are held together with velcro strips creating a chaotic finish to a menswear staple.
Strong details and subcultural hints are developed across the collection: detachable straps cross the shoulders of suits or dusters, or dangle from the waist of flat-front slacks. Cutouts at the ankle give a breezy finish. A touch of off-kilter properness.
Sportswear cuts through: printed nylon anoraks are worn in place of shirts, or layered under raincoats. The padded nylon coat can be assembled and disassembled in multiple ways. Knitwear is compact and graphic.
Prints are rhythmic grids, bold stripes, pictorial flowers and coiling geometries. Fabrics have a soft, firm hand: two-ply fresco, polyester, washed viscose, calfskin. The classic color palette of sage, khaki, deep blue, light blue and burgundy is lit by touches of orange and red.
Shoes: sturdy two-tone lace-ups, sandals with a strong graphic cultural mix. Bags: Trunk briefcases, soft calfskin pouches, printed nylon rucksacks. Glasses highlight the gaze with a thick graphic line.