EN / PT
PUBLISHED ORIGINALLY AT JORNAL ESTADO DE SÃO PAULO, MARCH 2015
Fashion is diversifying the meaning of beauty. As a response to the Instagram images plasticity, where perfection is as much a desire as it is banal, stylists began exposing the different, even the ugly as a fashion aesthetics’ option.
In this context, John Galliano is back on the top of the pyramid. After the tragic 2010 episode, when Dior fired and judged him publicly for having done unhappy antisemitic comments at the famous Café de Flore, in Paris, the stylist is back in this prêt-à-porter season commanding Maison Margiela. His premiere fashion show looks like a metaphor of his own behavior: we all look good and ugly and we express both through different conducts. After all, five years ago he let a horrendous side of his personality came out. Models with curved backs, heavy makeup and hairdos, the catwalk highlighted this side of Galliano.
At Givenchy, Ricardo Tisci created a disturbing aesthetics in his models’ beauty, defined by himself as an “aggressive aesthetics”. In the Victorian style, the collection brought the decorative elements of those days although without respecting any code of the today’s female beauty.
Today’s aesthetic diversity goes beyond the international runways; it has become more than a punctual trend, but a consistent movement. Brands such as Hood By Air and Rick Owens gain fans around the globe while proposing new aspirational aesthetic universes. Those brands challenge the perception of beauty through their clothes when they work without a pattern. They create the new without a commitment with the pre-established beauty standards.
Such proposal stands clear in their choice of models, in the brand’s campaigns and of course in the clothes and accessories. New large and disproportional stylings are winning followers on scale, especially among the consumers who are tired of the today’s plastic beauty ostentation. This movement transcends beauty; it promotes an encounter of the consumer with authenticity, offering thus a genuine way to consume.
This new wave is getting the streets of New York and the “Prettyugly” party celebrates it. The duo Erich Conrad and Drew Elliot have decided to shake Manhattan’s nightlife that had been losing strength to the Brooklyn’s, which released the event on October of 2014. It did not take a long time to begin winning followers that were tired of posing perfectly for Instagram and were actually searching real fun. The name of the party and the fun flyers say everything: have fun being who you are.
A premise that absolutely defines the spirit of this movement.