EN / PT
The Russian Gosha Rubchinskiy is one of the most interesting names of the fashion’s new wave. Born in Moscow, the stylist and photographer introduced to the whole world the youths from the new Russia. He celebrates the postcommunist aesthetics in a cold city, where young people take the streets and reveal their unique aesthetics that today is a reference throughout all the capitals of the world.
Gosha is a lucky guy, an independent stylist discovered by Comme des Garçons Rei Kawakubo. Since 2012 he manages his collections production, sales, marketing and distribution, so his duty is exclusively to create. It is the dream of every fashion designer. “The young people from my generation and from the generation before used to feel isolated and disconnected from the popular culture. The new generation has Internet and they feel part of something bigger, they want to be the voice of their people and show the world that they can be creative and make good music, good art. This movement continues to grow. It is a new Russia”, said Rubchinskiy in an interview to Dazed.
With fashion shows in the men’s Fashion Week in Paris for the last two years, in June 2016 the stylist presented his collection in Florence as a special guest of the Pitti Uomo male fashion fair, together with Raf Simons. Rubchinskiy managed to create a cult around his name, a new aesthetics represented in his clothes, books and exhibitions.
His aesthetics is based on the Moscow skateboarders. It is there he makes his fashion show’s castings and captures the material for his work as a photographer. One of his most emblematic pieces is the book Youth Hotel, released in the end of 2015. It instantly became a classic. Young Russians with shaved heads, smoking cigarettes, skateboarding and wearing army uniforms.
“There was a moment when I realized, and ‘this is it‘. This is something I have been developing all of my life, that image, that hero, this is the way I want to do it. I knew back then how the fashion world worked and I decided to create my first collection. We did not think about the future. I just wanted to show my vision to the others – the boys, our style, us. And this is still my brand’s key. In the beginning, it was like a game. We never thought it would become a serious fashion brand”, said Gosha in an interview to 032C.
The brand’s success, today commercialized by the Dover Street Market stores and through ecommerce stores such as Farfetch.com, has a deep connection with the freedom of expression that Comme des Garçons gave to Rubchinskiy. He still lives in Moscow and keeps on digging his universe in search of fuel to continue to create the evolution of his style that is conquering the world.