EN / PT
It is interesting that when a country splits, as it happened to England after the Brexit announcement, fashion collections end up getting a nationalist tone. That happened this week in London and, coincidentally, last April at São Paulo Fashion Week.
It looks as though it is a way that fashion designers found to bring up the best of the nation when things are not doing so well. After all, both the British and us, Brazilians are one as a nation, but divided when it concerns power and politics.
However, on the catwalks the rules are different. With references that came from the Victorian times to the Club Kids from the 80s, everything we love the most about England was celebrated in different collections.
Below is an overview of five collections of Spring Summer 2017 London Fashion Week, which ended on the 20th.
5. MARQUES ALMEIDA
The Portuguese duo stablished in London, Paulo Almeida and Marta Marques became famous due to their meticulous works with denim structures. This season, the evolution was clear with the use of noble materials such as tulle, chambray and silk, keeping complex and elaborated constructions in a diverse mood that went from the English punk to the baroque, with a bit of Lady Di references. The styling, which was done by the models themselves, was very curious. It gave an air of authentic fashion, inspired by the Instagram it-girls style, from the catwalks to the streets, just like the moment requests.
Moving against the current trend, Donatella Versace is leaving the see-now- buy-now aside, something that she has already been testing for four years with her second brand Versus. However, now that designer Anthony Vaccarello left the creative direction and migrated to Saint Laurent, Donatella took the liberty with her creative team to reactivate the brand’s essence that will turn 20 years old in 2016. Versus is young rebel, sexy and cool. Just like London. Oversize leather jackets with knee high combat boots were key for both men and women, something that is becoming a new norm in many collections nowadays. Cut-out pieces, transparencies and a sporty touch complete the collection, that ended with a sequence of washed jeans, almost white and all ripped. Punk, commercial and current.
3. TOPSHOP UNIQUE
The London underground scene of the 80s was the starting point of the Topshop Unique collection. It mixed romantic references with some of the decade’s exaggerations and this combination worked for the street fashion that the British girls want to wear right now. Part of the collection was already available after the show and slowly, in the following weeks, the other pieces will arrive to the shops. In the last looks, a selection of black dresses – with a nightly feel – with a mix of transparencies and cuts that show the brand’s strength and the connection that a fashion giant, like Topshop, can create with the desires of the final consumer, something that the retailer has already been doing for more than a decade.
2. J.W. ANDERSONJ. W. Anderson has one of the most disputed London shows. This season, the designer used the dress as the main collection piece, elaborating different cuts and styles, printing his eccentric personality in the collection. Anderson seems to be always a season ahead, with silhouettes that should appear in other collections of the upcoming seasons. The perfection in the accessories, such as the combat boots, are the reflexion of his experience at the Spanish brand Loewe, from the LVMH group, where Anderson also signs the collections as the creative director.
While most of the designers in London exhibited their 2017 spring summer collections, Burberry presented its 2016 autumn winter, the season that began this week at the North hemisphere. Ahead of its times in terms of innovation, the show, that was developed for the consumers, was maybe one of the best works of Christopher Bailey at Burberry. To innovate, a trip around time, inspired by the Virginia Woolf’s book Orlando, published in 1928. A story of a man that wakes up as a woman. The theme was incorporated in the first man/woman fashion show of the brand. The collection was relevant, cool, and light. With a fresh air, it really changed Burberry’s position in the fashion universe. There was a flow in the wintery heavy fabrics overlays with Victorian references and a cool styling inspired by the streets. To wear right now and not only for inspiration. That was Bailey’s message.